A complete guide to chain waxing. Eco friendly marginal gains
In recent years some ardent cyclists have turned to chain waxing to extract marginal gains. A dose of scepticism is warranted. A study by Friction Facts found that waxed chains saved around 3 watts of power compared to a non-lubricated chain. It means you cycle faster. But the difference is the definition of marginal.
We've been riding with a waxed chain for the past few months to come to our own conclusion on the benefits, answer whether chain waxing is worth it, and do some myth-busting ourselves. "Are waxed chains noisy?"
Having put chain waxing to the test, we also ended up compiling our lessons learned into this guide in case you're interested in trying waxing your chain yourself.
What is chain waxing?
Chain waxing is a relatively new approach to lubricating a bike chain and drivetrain. It can be done in a few steps. First, it involves removing the factory grease from the chain so the chain wax has a clean surface to stick. For the second step the chain is completely submerged in a wax blend. Finally, the chain is left to dry. As the wax dries it hardens and creates a shell that protects the chain and drivetrain from grit and mental-on-metal contact.
Is chain waxing worth the effort?
One of the main reasons cyclists wax their chains is the performance gain. While the boost from waxing will vary from chain to chain, riders typically experience a 2-7 watt (at 250 watt power output) increase, equivalent to a 0.8-2.4% improvement in drivetrain efficiency.
The second reason is more practical, and arguably the stronger reason of the two in our opinion. Waxing repels grit, unlike drip lubes, which seem to coat the whole drivetrain with dirt at the first sign of road. Wax is therefore not only a more sustainable option but it also gets rid of some of the cleaning faff.
We spoke to Anita Krelle, a semi-pro cyclist and friend, currently living in New York, who was pretty emphatic. “Drivetrain lifespan savings are massive,” Krelle told us. She explained why grit doesn’t stick to the wax, which creates a physical barrier to reduce wear from metal-on-metal contact. A regularly waxed chain can last up to 15,000 km (9,320 miles) before reaching 0.5 mm wear on a chain checker. “If you’re not getting 5,000 km, you need to make better choices!”
With the high cost of new drivetrains, tripling or quadrupling the lifespan of chains, chainrings, cassettes, and derailleur pulleys by chain waxing can mean huge savings.
Because waxed chains are much cleaner this also means more time on the bike and less time spent de-clogging the dirt and grime. There is also a sustainability dimension. If you take a look at the ingredients on a bottle of lube you’ll find a list of harmful chemicals (e.g. naphtha, kerosene and aliphatic hydrocarbons) that are no good for the planet. Wax, on the other hand, is a far more sustainable alternative.
We also asked Krelle about her experience with chain noise. “It’s usually a sign that the wax is wearing off”. She explains how noise doesn’t mean wear and tear, but she would usually re-wax. This chimes with our experience too. If the chain is noisy after a fresh wax, it’s most likely from taking the chain out of the wax when both are still hot - causing most of the wax to run off the chain.
What is chain wax made from?
A complete guide to chain waxing. Eco friendly marginal gains
Chain wax is a combination of a wax blend with a lubricant. For our Super Slick Chain Wax we chose two high quality nano-scale lubricants with different degrees of micronisation in Tungsten Disulfide (WS₂) and Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS₂). These act not only as lubricants, but transform the surface of the chain, filling the crevices in the metal with highly lubricious and wear-resistant particles. Some companies choose to use Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) as a lubricant, which is cheaper but does environmental harm as it takes hundreds of years to break down.
How long does chain wax last?
We found that a newly waxed chain gave us about 300-400km of low-friction pedaling in dry weather. If it starts to make noise it’s time for a rewax. Cycling in the wet was a different story. After a wet ride, we found we had to re-wax much sooner even if we dried the chain immediately after cycling.
How do I wax my chain?
Step 1: Degreasing the chain and drivetrain.
The first thing you need to do is clean off the grease from your chain and bike drivetrain. Get in every nook as the chain needs to be spotless otherwise lingering grease will mix with the wax, making it harder for the wax to stick to the chain. In our experience it helps if the chain is brand new because the factory grease is easier to remove.
To degrease your chain, put it in a plastic container, then cover the chain with mineral spirits or a degreaser. Secure the lid and shake for a few minutes. The liquid should blacken as all the grease and dirt comes off.
Remove the chain from the container and rinse with water. At this stage it’s worth checking if the chain is clean enough to wax. One way to do this is by running a clean rag or paper towel over it. If there is any grease or dirt left then it needs a second bath. Repeat the previous step. Sometimes a chain can take 2-3 baths before it’s properly clean.
Now follow the same process with a methylated spirit. Put the chain in a second plastic container. Add the methylated spirit. Close the lid and shake. Remove the chain and leave it to dry.
Step 2: Waxing the chain.
Once the factory grease is off, the next step is the waxing. It’s time to bring out the slow cooker. Pour in your wax and lubricants. If you're using our Super Slick Wax the quantities are 500 g, 15 g and 15 g respectively. Stick to these ratios if you want to use a smaller amount, but make sure you have enough in the slow cooker to cover the chain entirely.
Turn the slow cooker to its low/medium setting. We put the chain in at this point because as it heats the metal expands helping the wax get inside the rollers and pins. This is where it is needed most and why (badly) waxed chains can be noisy.
The wax should melt within 30-45 minutes. Move the chain around in the wax using an old clothes hanger. Then hook the chain with the hanger and take it out of the slow cooker, catching any drips with a small piece of aluminium foil.
Leave the chain to dry for 20 minutes.
Step 3: Re-fitting the chain.
After 20 minutes the wax will have dried and the chain will be stiff. You have a choice betweeneither breaking the wax on each link by hand or breaking the wax on a few links, enough to be able to thread it through the drivetrain, and then breaking in the rest of the links by pedaling through on a work stand. Once you have done this the chain can be installed on the bike.